Marrakesh Mama: Bad Vibrations

How many men does it take to figure out
how to get a giant palm tree onto a flatbed?

It has been a week played out to the background noise of jack hammers and jackasses (sorry kids for breaking my own rule, but there are times that call for this kind of language). While the United States does its best to self-implode on the other side of the Atlantic, the building next door to us has literally crumbled to the ground. We wake up every day to the reverberations of a jack hammer just on the other side of our bedroom wall. The whole building vibrates and groans throughout the day, and, from time to time, we hear the sound of a massive wall crumbling. It’s a little disconcerting to say the least. City living has its perks (like the late-night snack runs to the store just around the corner, the never-ending choices of yummy food, and the endless street theater). However, waking up to a jack hammer is not one of the perks. Although, the construction site itself does provide for a good deal of entertainment on a daily basis. We watch groups of men gather and discuss the best way to maneuver trucks and trees out of our narrow street. The parking helper, the night watchman, the security guard, and the neighbors all seem to weigh in on the decision making. Sometimes there is lots of yelling and excitement, and we rush out to the balcony to make sure the building is not caving in. We can only speculate what the plans might be for the soon-to-be vacant lot next to us. Our best guess is that a new apartment building will go up, and we will have construction noise to greet us every morning.

The noise from a jack hammer, however, pales in comparison to the noise coming from the U.S. I really thought Tuesday would finally bring a break from the political madness. Sadly it has only gotten noisier. Meaner. Messier. Tuesday night the American Corner in Marrakech hosted an election-streaming party complete with Uncle Sam hats, bumper stickers, buttons, and life-sized cardboard cutouts of the candidates. I spent a full day learning enough about the electoral college to pretend I knew what I was talking about, and then I spent an hour at the party trying to educate Moroccan students about how it works. We had a Coke and Pepsi challenge to simulate an election. Coke won the popular vote. Natch. Then (with the help of Brianna and Andy to strategically rig the voting) Pepsi won the electoral college contest. It was entertaining to watch the passion involved and the slow dawn of comprehension on the faces of Coke voters when they realized that the popularity of their favorite beverage did not translate into a win. Oh, the irony. When the questions started coming in on Wednesday and Thursday, I simply had to reply, “Remember Coke and Pepsi?” Nuff said.

Despite the unpleasant din all around, we have spent the week squeezing in as many Marrakech moments as possible. I got my first braille lesson from a student who I am tutoring in English. My guess is that by the end of the year I will have learned more braille and Darija from him than he will have learned English from me. Brianna and I helped at a Scavenger Hunt for English students at the Menara Gardens where we quizzed groups of students on random bits of English trivia when they found their way to our spot in the garden. Our favorite question, “What is the color of the last ball potted in snooker?” required translation for these two Americans just so we could figure out what we were asking.

Scavenger hunt in the Menara Gardens

We visited the Marrkech Photography Museum and the Museum of Boucharouit (a museum paying tribute to the “poor people’s” recycled rug art of the Berber mountains) in the medina. In both we learned lots about the culture of the Berbers and life in the High Atlas Mountains. We also visited a very cool exhibit on the history of the Djemma el-Fna, Morocco’s famous square of entertainment, where we learned the stories behind some of the performers. Another day, Andy and I visited the Bahia Palace and Saadian Tombs in the southern part of the medina in our effort to make sure we see everything that Marrakech has to offer. We enjoyed all that we have become accustomed to finding in Moroccan museums and palaces - lots and lots of Moroccan tile, beautifully carved ceilings, and cats dosing in the sunshine.

Boucharouit rug was cool, but I really
want that tub.

Snakes and monkeys and henna, oh my!
Medina Life

Saadian Tombs

The sunshine does persist, but the weather has taken a distinct turn toward winter. When I ride my bike to the university for my 8:00 class, I can see my breath and need to bundle up. Mid-day, warm temperatures return, and then it cools off again as soon as the sun sets. In many ways, the change is welcome even for this sun worshiper. For instance, I can run during daylight hours without dying from heat stroke, and the “modest wardrobe,” covering knees to elbows, is much more bearable when the sun isn’t withering my soul. Rain and cooler temperatures have also resulted in clear blue skies, which have revealed that we are, indeed, surrounded by towering snow-covered mountains. It is beautiful. For the first month that I was here, I never glimpsed a mountain through the smog. Now they are up close, personal, and calling. There is something amazing about sitting in a desert garden, surrounded by palm trees and cactuses, while staring up at snow-covered peaks. There really is a possibility of some skiing this winter.

Amazing Atlas Mountains finally coming into view

These seasonal changes in our little world are happening as the rest of the world has their environmental eyes on Marrakech. The city is hosting COP22 this week, the International Climate Change Conference, and it has been busy primping and preening for the affair. The streets are decorated from head to toe in the red and green of Morocco’s flag. There are lights on everything. Gardens have been manicured. Fountains have water in them and are running at full tilt. There are police officers at intersections directing traffic, and there is security everywhere. At night, the Djemma el-Fna is bursting at the seams. Restaurants are full. Taxis are full. Parades, exhibitions, and presentations are happening all over the city both day and night. The atmosphere is festive, and the city is crowded. We’re trying to enjoy the festivities while they last, but we’re also looking forward to a return to normalcy.

That would just about sum up this entire week: seeking a return to normalcy. Inshallah.